ISO 24444 / ISO 24443 EU COLIPA and SANS 1557 Verified Broadspectrum Sunscreens
The primary purpose of incorporating Vitamins A (Retinyl Palmitate), C (Ascorbic Acid), and E (Tocopherol) into sunscreen formulations is not nutritional supplementation but rather to provide antioxidant protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced damage.
When UV rays penetrate the skin, they generate highly reactive molecules called free radicals (also known as reactive oxygen species or ROS). These unstable molecules can damage cell membranes, DNA, and proteins—contributing to premature ageing, inflammation, and potentially increasing long-term skin cancer risk.
Vitamin E acts as a direct antioxidant against singlet oxygen and superoxide anions. Additionally, when lipid peroxidation occurs in cell membranes, tocopherol's function as a 'chain breaker' prevents lipid peroxidation by scavenging peroxyl radicals (PMC, 2023).
Think of these vitamins as a molecular clean-up crew: whilst traditional UV filters in sunscreen absorb or reflect the sun's rays, antioxidant vitamins neutralise any residual damage that manages to slip through. Dermatologists often describe antioxidants as a 'second layer' of protection on top of SPF (Standard Procedure, 2025).
A common misconception is that vitamins applied to the skin behave identically to those consumed orally. This is fundamentally incorrect from both a pharmacological and physiological standpoint.
When you swallow a vitamin supplement, it travels through your digestive system, is absorbed through the intestinal wall, enters the bloodstream directly, and is then processed by the liver. This route provides efficient, near-complete absorption into the body's systemic circulation.
Topical (dermal) application follows an entirely different pathway:
Studies provide evidence that human topical exposure to cosmetic creams containing retinyl palmitate at 30,000 IU/day at maximal use concentrations do not affect plasma levels of retinol or retinyl palmitate, whereas single oral doses at 10,000 IU or 30,000 IU produce significant increases in plasma retinyl palmitate (CIR Safety Assessment, 2012).
This is a crucial finding: even at concentrations thousands of times higher than used in our formulation, topically applied Retinyl Palmitate does not measurably increase blood vitamin A levels, whilst the same amount taken orally causes clear, dose-dependent increases.
Let us examine precisely what 0.001% Retinyl Palmitate means in practical terms:
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Concentration of Retinyl Palmitate | 0.001% (10 ppm) |
| Typical generous sunscreen application (baby, full body) | ~10g maximum |
| Amount of Retinyl Palmitate per application | 0.0001g (100 micrograms) |
| Dermal absorption rate (SCCS estimate) | ~5-8% maximum |
| Amount potentially reaching bloodstream | 5-8 micrograms |
To convert this to International Units (IU), the standard measure for vitamin A: 1 microgram Retinyl Palmitate ≈ 1.82 IU. Maximum systemic exposure per full-body application: approximately 9-15 IU
According to WHO guidelines, a dose of 100,000 International Units (IU) in infants 6–11 months of age is considered to provide adequate protection for 4–6 months in therapeutic supplementation programmes (NCBI Bookshelf, WHO Guidelines).
| Reference Point | Vitamin A Amount |
|---|---|
| Your sunscreen (per application, absorbed) | ~9-15 IU |
| Adequate daily intake for 0-6 month infants | ~400 IU |
| WHO therapeutic supplementation dose (6-11 months) | 100,000 IU (single dose) |
| Upper tolerable limit (1-3 year olds) | 2,700 IU/day |
The exposure from your sunscreen formulation represents approximately 0.004% (four thousandths of one percent) of the recommended daily intake for an infant.
Your baby would need to have approximately 6,500 to 11,000 full-body sunscreen applications (with complete absorption) to receive the equivalent of a single WHO therapeutic vitamin A supplement dose given to infants in deficiency programmes.
The CIR Expert Panel reviewed the safety data on Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate and concluded that these ingredients were not mutagenic or carcinogenic. Cosmetics and personal care products containing 0.1-1% of these ingredients were at most slightly irritating. A recent publication demonstrated that topically-applied Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate did not result in measurable increases in the amount of vitamin A in the blood (Cosmetics Info, 2023).
The CIR has consistently found Retinyl Palmitate safe at concentrations up to 5%—that is 5,000 times higher than our 0.001% concentration.
The SCCS considers that the use of Vitamin A in body lotions at the maximum concentration of 0.05% is safe, estimating exposure may lead to a daily systemic dose of approximately 1003 IU for an adult, constituting up to 20% of the Upper Limit of 5000 IU/day (European Commission, 2016).
The maximum permitted concentration of 0.05% RE (Retinol Equivalent) for body lotions is 50 times higher than our formulation's concentration.
You may encounter references to a 2010 National Toxicology Program (NTP) study that examined Retinyl Palmitate and UV exposure in mice. It is important to provide accurate context:
According to an article in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, "The data summarised in this review clearly indicate that SKH-1 mouse skin is significantly more photosensitive than human skin and that retinyl palmitate is not only safe for topical use but that it may provide a UV-protective effect when incorporated into skin care products" (Cloud Vitamin Cream, 2023).
| Concern | Reality |
|---|---|
| "Is there enough to cause harm?" | At 0.001%, the amount absorbed is approximately 0.004% of an infant's daily requirement—physiologically insignificant |
| "Does it enter the bloodstream?" | Studies confirm topical application at even much higher concentrations does not measurably elevate blood vitamin A levels |
| "Is there regulatory concern?" | Both CIR and SCCS have assessed concentrations 50-5,000 times higher as safe |
| "What about sun exposure concerns?" | No human evidence of harm; potential UV-protective benefits actually documented |
| "Why include it at all?" | Functions as an antioxidant free radical scavenger, providing supplementary protection beyond UV filtration |
The inclusion of Vitamins A (Retinyl Palmitate), C, and E in our sunscreen formulation serves a protective purpose—neutralising damaging free radicals generated by UV exposure. At the ultra-low concentration of 0.001% Retinyl Palmitate:
The trace quantities present serve purely as antioxidant guardians—not as nutritional supplements—and their safety profile at these concentrations is exceptionally well-established by global regulatory authorities and peer-reviewed scientific research.
Our team is here to help you understand our ingredients and choose the safest sun protection for your family: